My Experience of The Ridge Walk- by Esme Bowen May 2005

The invite to walk the ridge came from Gary at Wheelchair Sports.
Andrew Budge had invited him along on the walk planned for May as an “opportunity to clear their heads” after a hectic schedule of Handcycling Nationals in March.
Gary thought I might be interested, as I loved walking and getting out in the bush. I had managed the “Cape to Cape’ and some of the Bibbulmun. When a bit more information filtered through on the email, it sounded ok, 26kms over 2 days, 7 peaks finishing on the back of Bluff Knoll in the Stirlings. Sounded ok I thought, why my suspicions of that relatively easy distance over that time frame didn’t flash at me is beyond my comprehension!!
Tom was to be the leader of the pack, and I was well assured by Gary we were in very safe hands. So I committed !! Me, the 45 year old housewife from the suburbs, slightly overweight and with a 2nd tier fitness level compared to the rest of the crew. I consoled myself with the knowledge that although Tom, Budgie and the rest of the crew had amazing fitness levels and that Gary had youth on his side, I had some walking experience, and Gary and I would keep one another company bringing up the rear!!

I started training in my boots with my pack, I increased the body balance classes, swim and cycle sessions. I started sorting gear I needed and was getting excited. A small bell in my head kept ringing!! Was my fitness adequate? I needed to do more, but I was trying to jam it into gaps as my every day life allowed , but it wasn’t enough!!

On Mother’s day my gift to myself was to walk to Fremantle from my home in Trigg. It was a sensational day and walk. I met Gary and Budgie in Fremantle, and I was introduced to Ian who along with his wife Julie, was crew on the walk. Ian was gentle, quietly encouraging, and gave us fantastic practical advice on gear. He had awesome mountain experience!! The “little” bell in my head got louder!! I listened to his advice and patient manner, I now knew my fitness was lagging, and my technical climbing experience amounted to a huge FAT ZERO!!

On Monday Gary pulled out!! He had blisters from his boots!!
Great!! But there is always a silver lining!! I got his ski poles!!
As the week wore on my alarm bell got louder.

I think I would like to have pulled out, but I did not have a reasonable or plausible excuse, only that I was out of my comfort zone- big time!!
how true that was I would shortly find out, and it was dawning on me rapidly )– is that a reasonable excuse ??
I would be the lame duck holding back the team, or the one in the RAC rescue helicopter!! Probably the only RAC councillor ever to need the service they provide for the community!
The weather was looking ominous, a big front was brewing, I wondered if the weather could save me? No, these maniacs were cautious, but happy with that!!

The next hurdle, Budgie tells me we are leaving at midnight on Friday night.
At Midnight!! Most normal people are sleeping! “What, we don’t sleep before we walk?” This girl likes her sleep, especially before a big weekend!
Now I knew I was in the company of maniacs, but I packed, slept for a restless hour, said goodbye to the family and drove off to meet Budgie. We were then to rendezvous with Tom, Ian and Julie at Canning Bridge at midnight.
My gut instinct as I left home was “Don’t Go” Loud and Clear!
Another little voice said “you’ll never, never know, if you never get to go”
And there was only one way to know if I could do this. I just hoped I didn’t ruin everyone else’s weekend in the process.
Budgie and I pulled up at Canning Bridge- the person who unfolded himself out of the driver’s seat - all 6 foot 9’inches - was Tom. Ian and his wife Julie were there too.

We set off. It was a relief for me mentally to be on our way.
I was committed. Physically, I was all hyped up and ready to go.
We drove through the night and arrived at the base of Bluff Knoll at around 5am. We had coffee and breakfast in the car park, left a vehicle there, registered in the National Park walkers book, and piled into Tom’s car for the starting point, the carpark that borders the Stirling Range National Park. We got ourselves organized and set off, it was 6.25am and the most stunning morning.

We walked 6 kms along a firebreak track and bush trail, that contours the back of Moir Hill. The scenery was magnificent, farms to one side, bush and the amazing Stirlings in the distance looming closer, on the other. This pocket of WA is a hidden jewel.

The scenery was to get to be so much more, as was the walking!!
I had deliberately kept my pack at 12.5kgs.I was spoilt in that Tom and Ian carried extras for us all to share, cookers, pots and shelter. Tom’s pack was enormous even on his generous frame, and I think his pack weighed at least twice mine! I knew this walk would be a big challenge, and I knew my pack weight would be a vital component in my survival.
I did keep in my gortex jacket and thermals as the weather forecast was ominous and I knew the ridge could change in an instant. I had also wrapped most of my gear in plastic for that reason- wet gear at the end of the day is not much use and heavier to carry I reasoned!!

We stopped for a break and to take in our surroundings-the bush was pristine and the weather mild and pleasant. I thought that just maybe, we could get lucky with the weather. The forecast didn’t predict it like that.
We started to wind our way towards the ridge, I looked ahead to what was before me. It looked beguiling and beautiful. It beckoned you on.

My walking companions were sizing me up, as I guess I was them. My pace had been fine to start with, a steady comfort zone- boy, was that to change!
I probably talked too much- mercifully for them that was rapidly altered as we started to climb. I hadn’t used ski poles before for walking and was trying to find a rhythm , I often got tangled up in it all.
I found Julie’s pace was smart for me, I followed her lead. Tom was encouraging and comfortable in this patch, this was his country, and he was willing to share it. His fitness was obviously extreme, as was the length of his stride!

Each time I looked up from the track to drink in the scenery, the angles were always so different. Our starting point faded as the Ridge loomed. We started to climb. I started heavy breathing, my lungs were in for the workout of their life on this weekend.

I had expressed as we walked along the fire trail, to Tom and the group my self doubt, (Budgie had been ear bashed on the trip in the car south, the others escaping this conversation as they were in the other vehicle)
Tom said “ you can put one foot one foot in front of the other can’t you?”
I replied affirmatively.
This was to become a mental mantra for me…left, right, left, right!!

I spoke quietly to Julie, I found her choices were a good guide for me. I probably was a pest at times, as I was trying to settle in and she was trying to adjust to the walk without her headphones. Tom and Ian gently chaperoned us as we ascended. All of this group of people cocooned me from the reality of what was to come.

We walked up the first peak of the ridge, that forms part of Ellen Peak- think Jacob’s Ladder!! I looked in awe at what was to come. My out of comfort zone feeling intensified. We then hopped down a mixed rock surface to then ascend and contour Ellen Peak. Budgie and Tom saw a snake here but chose not to share that observation with us all.
It was now, head down, breathe hard, and walk with no talk!!

We stopped at regular intervals for a snack, drink and toilet stop and to drink in the sights, sounds and vista of this amazing land.
At times I struggled to stay upright, I breathed hard, I cursed myself for my complacency and lack of serious hill work. As everyone else looked comfortable- I was starting to feel like I had no control, not much reserve and possibly hadn’t drunk enough. My footholds were slow, I followed Tom, where he put his enormous boots, I put mine in a similar spot. The only logistical nightmare was our leg length difference. An entire 15 inches of difference – which on the ridge, made a noted amount from my perspective, I can tell you!! He managed to step a height that that for me was incompatible with any form of recovery for my hip joints!!

By the time we stopped for lunch at the Grass Cave on the southern side of Pyungoorup Peak, I was in trouble!
I was shaking and unsure what I needed , couldn’t put my sandwich together and as soon as I stopped moving I became incredibly cold. I was having problems with simple decisions, do I need to go to the toilet or not? I felt like an overtired 2 year old on a long trip, are we nearly there yet?

After lunch and a precious sit down and relief from the weight of the pack, we started out again. We went towards the Southern side of the ridge, tiptoeing along “goat tracks” with grass reeds everywhere, known as Baker’s knob. The path was not solid, and each step required me to try my foothold gingerly, and then add my weight. I was very slow. I was following Julie, gently and oh so slowly, picking my way along the track. I felt like a mud crab with ski poles!!

Suddenly I heard Tom yell – it wasn’t what he said but the tone that caught me. It chilled me and stopped me solid. Julie and I looked at each other, held our positions and then started to creep towards the voice. We could not see them and I was unsure who had fallen, Budgie or Ian. Another voice in the silence, the same one but quieter, with an easier tone calling out.
Then I saw Budgie coming back towards us, with eyes the size of dinner plates, “did you see that” he quietly asked,
“no” I replied. “Good thing” he said.
Tom had gone the mountain goat vertical path to Ian. The remainder of us went via the “mere mortals” path to meet the 2 men. Ian had fallen after a tree gave way under his handhold.
He miraculously appeared fine- very 007- shaken but not stirred!! “Death defying incredible flying man acrobatics” to quote Tom.

I now realized fully how vulnerable I was, my footholds and handholds got slower, checked and double checked. The poles were stabbed in position, once, twice and sometimes even more! The crew must have thought they were climbing with a snail!

It was along here I learnt the joy of borrowed gear unpracticed with!! My borrowed camelback came apart inside my pack!! When the 2 walkers behind me told me I was leaking water, I smartly took my pack off and checked the damage! Yes everything had leaked thru my pack, but as I had packed all my gear in plastic in anticipation of lousy weather, I was saved from the curse of the wet sleeping bag!! Thank you God!

Saturday afternoon led us to the water tank, past the Arrows, 3 identical peaks, where we luckily refilled our water supplies, which equates to 6 star luxury for walkers. Water is precious and on the last climb the tank was dry. The 2 men walking behind us had repaired and secured the hose to the tank on their last walk, and all was still in working order to everyone’s relief. These friendly and very fit characters decided to camp at “The cave” here and our decision was to push on to” The Pines” for the night. These men and 1 other guy at Saturday night camp were the only others we saw on the ridge.

This meant for our crew 90 minutes of technical climbing. Tom and Budgie forged ahead, Ian the gentleman brought up the rear with the girl team. With the weather pressing, the aim I thought was to do major distance without the rain added to the equasian. I found the climbing hard, but the pace comfortable ( for me the snail) Julie’s foothold choices I copied to the letter, where her feet went, so did mine. How she stretched those legs from point to point at times defied gravity- I was full of admiration. Where she did the “bum slide thing” so did I !! The new pants were looking and feeling very experienced! I stretched, the ski poles were overworked to the max, an absolute ESSENTIAL tool for me!! I would never have made it without those trusty “ friends”.
We had walked, climbed, slid, breathed hard, sighed and for me “grunted my way” thru for 10 ½ hours.
Then Ian told me we had another hour at least!! I was so pleased he is such an obvious, lousy liar!! Around the next rock face, sheer drop, uphill/downhill section with amazing views across a postcard vista was
“ The Pines” and our overnight camp!!
We offloaded our packs, and were pleased to see Tom and Budgie had prepared luxurious overnight accommodation! There was the promise of food, shelter, and sleep- what more could a girl want!!

We arrived at camp at approximately 5pm, boy was I happy to stop moving!! I cleaned up, changed into fresh gear, cooked dinner courtesy of Tom’s stove and by 6.09pm said” is it time for bed yet?”
My level of chat was low, I was exhausted but exhilarated, and by 6.10pm was fast asleep.!!
Cocooned between these amazing new friends in a shelter from the wind, wondering what overnight, and then tomorrow would bring.

Another walker crossed our path at camp and mentioned that the weather predicted may come in later than we thought. I prayed for no rain, the mix of terrain we were in, with water added, was not a cocktail for me!! In fact the potential effects made me feel ill!

I am an early riser at the best of times, but the very glamorous curried noodles I‘d had the night before forced me up in a hurry! I could not find my usual rice meal and made the mistake of compromising! Not a great choice for my system under a little duress!
I thought about the day to come and was SO relieved when everything settled eventually so I could get organized for the challenge at hand!
Not the most positive start to a mega day! Mental note for next time –do not compromise on the food in the bush!! It proves better for a girl’s self confidence!!

On another note –did everything hurt when I got up? Not too bad really considering but I got in quite a few stretches before everyone was up. We hobbled, stretched and indulged in an anti-inflammatory based breakfast, packed up, strapped up wayward joints and we were away for day 2.

Tom suggests a tow for me. I am happy to oblige if it increases my snail pace for the team, and also ensures I get home! I felt maybe I was being a wimp, on the other hand I don’t think I really cared what anyone thought! My sole aim was to finish preferably without wet weather! Did I care if I was towed? Absolutely not!
Did Tom? He said not – I did not ask twice!

We emerged into an organized crew and took off at about 8am to the first high point Isongerup Peak, (Views of Bluff Knoll carpark from here ) to then traverse the ridge line over some rolling terrain, where the 100kph winds literally blew Julie and myself over pack and all! We then approached the base of Moonoongoonderup Hill – the Mother of the Ridge!!
This ascent for me was to quote Tom “ where every step was a miracle”.

Even though I was on tow, there was several large discrepancies-
1. Our fitness levels – I needed to stop every 10-12 steps at times, to begin with Tom asked “what for”? I replied with a less than gorgeous attitude- “so I can breathe!!!!!”
2. His steps and mine were not matched! When he stretched those hips of his mine only managed ½ the length! Some of the steps over boulders on the ascent defied gravity for me but looked like a piece of pie for Tom.
3. Tom’s knowledge of the terrain and the walk was awesome. Tom was like he was in his own back yard, hanging out and proudly showing us his favourite things.

I incessantly asked questions (when I managed the breath control!) and his patience with me, was matched only with his extreme fitness levels!
Tom was like a machine, he appeared to roll on, up and over without pause.
I never thought of giving up- however this hill challenged my every fibre.
Julie luckily had pre warned me of this being “the big one”. Mentally and physically I took each step forward, one step at a time, with one foot in front of the next, left, right, left, right……….

During this ascent the bungee cord that connected us gave way, it had crossed my mind it would be likely to happen, I was so busy breathing, and concentrating on the left, right thing, that when it disconnected and “bit me “ as Tom put it, I was so surprised. Tom halted (not surprising as his considerable extra load rapidly lightened ) and asked if I had disconnected??
Through heavy breathing of a new kind, with grinding teeth to contain possible colourful language, I explained the hook was outlined in a delicate spot on the right side of my chest!!, and rapidly displaying rainbow colour status!! I took a deep breath, smiled and rapidly reconnected!
Tom commented it was good to have battle scars- interesting show and tell I thought!

On this amazing day, as we headed for “Double Bluff,” and on to the summit of Bluff Knoll, we stopped every ¾ hour to 1 hour for a break. Each time we stopped I loved it! Tom the machine and Budgie the protégé were making rapid time. Ian and Julie orchestrated many rest stops, and I could have kissed them but had no reserve for such frivolity!!

I drank, ate a little and rested my weary legs! It felt like I was in heaven, high on that magnificent ridge, overlooking a panorama of farmlands and bush. I had elected to leave the camera at home (extra weight in the pack) and often think that no camera could possibly do that paradise justice.

Budgie had generously given me some Gu gels on leaving camp, with strict instructions for a drink to match when I took them. The exchange was some advice on anti-inflamms. He got the poor end of the deal, and I think they saved me! I had more energy, felt better hydrated, and I will be forever grateful to him for that miracle!

With gels onboard and Tom towing, we dragged me towards the finish.
I was so into “me “ finishing, I had not realized how sore Budgie’s knee was after a fall Sat afternoon, that gave way, big time, about 2 hours from the car park. As we descended Bluff Knoll he was using his ski poles as crutches!!

We made the short climb along the back of Bluff Knoll, and paused to sit, smile, eat and drink, and praise the rain gods who smiled on us and kept the torrential rain and storms for the trip home.
We sat where I had sat with my family last time I had climbed Bluff Knoll, as an average tourist, going up the well designed safe path, thinking how blessed I was to have now uniquely experienced the ridge as I just had.

AND I HAD MADE IT!

I smiled broadly, (as I now often do in an average day, when I think of the ridge) to think I had experienced the efforts, privilege and joy of that challenge and amazing place.
I smiled at 4 gorgeous people, now special friends who 48 hours before had been strangers, who had shared themselves with me in many ways to “carry me” along “THE RIDGE”.
It will be forever treasured.